Caring for fish can be a very rewarding hobby and there are hundreds of different types of fish for you to choose from.
A fish tank creates a calming and relaxing atmosphere in the home. If you’re thinking about keeping fish but don’t know where to start,
The Pet Charity suggests starting with a tank of temperate fish, such as white cloud minnows or Variatus platy.
Temperate fish are smaller than goldfish, so you won’t have to upgrade your tank unless you decide to add more fish.
They’re also quite hardy and can cope with varying temperatures, which can be damaging to tropical or coldwater fish.
Goldfish are typically trouble-free pets for all the family to enjoy. A well cared for goldfish can live for eight years or longer, so do be prepared to upgrade your tank as they grow larger.
There are many varieties to choose from ranging from the common goldfish to varieties such as Comets, Fantails, Orandas, Lionheads, Shubunkins and Moors. These fish can all be kept in a tank or pond at room/outdoor temperature, so it is unnecessary to heat the water.
General care
Healthy fish are bright-eyed and have a shiny appearance. First signs of distress are usually sluggish movement and drooping of the dorsal and/or tail fins.
The most common illnesses are fungal infections of the skin, parasites and constipation.
Loss of scales, split fins and wounds received from predators can cause infection. Injuries can usually be treated with one of the many preparations available for this purpose. Your pet shop or aquatic centre will be able to advise you on the many proprietary remedies available.
Choosing your goldfish
Goldfish varieties can be mixed but all fish should be of a similar size and be compatible for water temperature and feeding habits. You should not mix single tailed and twin tailed goldfish, and it is important to remember that twin tailed goldfish are only suitable for an outdoor pond in the summer months. It is recommended that you find out how big your chosen fish are likely to grow.
A healthy goldfish should:
• Swim easily through the water and be active
• Not gasp at the surface of the tank or swim in a peculiar manner
• Have scales that cover the body evenly without any cuts or growths
Equipment
There is a large variety of aquaria, ponds, equipment and accessories available to make fish-keeping even more enjoyable.
All manufacturers give good advice on the installation and maintenance of equipment – it is important to follow their instructions carefully.
Set up your indoor aquarium at least 24 hours to three days before introducing any fish.
Indoor aquariums
There is a great variety of designs and sizes to choose from, depending on the space you have available.
The tank must be placed either on a specially designed stand or a strong rigid surface, with an expanded polystyrene mat underneath the tank.
Ensure the surface will be able to hold the tank once it is filled with water.
Position the tank away from windows, as daylight encourages algae growth, and also away from heat sources.
A full tank can be very heavy, so never move a tank containing water. Handle with great care and transport horizontally.
Setting up your tank
• Thoroughly rinse your new tank with clean water, then cover the bottom with carefully washed gravel and slowly fill the tank with water.
• You may also wish to add some aquatic ornaments, rocks and plants. Live plants will need to be trimmed regularly.
• Always use a water conditioner to make the tap water safe.
• A filtration system is always recommended.
• Introduce the fish only when the water quality is suitable.
• Your retailer will advise you on the number of goldfish you should keep in your chosen set-up.
Maintenance
You must remember to test the water quality in your tank regularly, this is because cold water fish are unable to tolerate high levels of ammonia or nitrites, which your filter will breakdown to a safe level. You can purchase water testing kits at most pet shops or aquatic centres. The more attention you pay to your tank’s water quality, the healthier your fish will be. It is also important to remember that it is not true that if the water is clear the quality is fine – this is a myth.
Aim for your tank water to reflect the following:
Temperature: 18-24°C – most goldfish are happy at room temperature so long as it doesn’t fluctuate too much.
pH level: 6.0-8.0
Ammonia and nitrite levels: 0mg/l
Water changes
Tap water should always be treated with a water conditioner, which your pet shop or aquatic centre will be able to advise on.
For systems with a filter, carry out regular 25 per cent water changes, with a complete water change when necessary.
Filters should be cleaned by rinsing them in the waste tank water, not under a tap.
For systems without a filter, change half the water weekly and a complete water change every month.
Introducing your fish into the tank
• Turn the tank light off, keep noise and movement to a minimum to help reduce stress.
• Float the unopened bag in the top of the tank for at least 15 minutes to regulate any temperature differences – this avoids shocking the fish.
• Open the bag and slowly allow some tank water to enter it so your new fish can get used to the difference in water. Wait a few minutes, then allow more tank water into the bag before gently releasing your fish into the tank.
• Turn the light back on after two hours.
• Seek advice from the retailer when purchasing your fish and ensure you are introducing compatible species.
• Do not add too many fish at once, as this puts too much pressure on the filter and fish can suffer. Check your tank’s water condition is optimum before adding any further fish.
Food
Feed daily according to the manufacturers’ instructions and be careful not to overfeed. Provide suitable food for all species of fish in the tank. A good rule is to feed your fish the amount they are likely to eat within two minutes, to prevent uneaten food rotting at the bottom of the tank.
Handling
Handling fish should be kept to a minimum and cause as little stress as possible. Use a net to catch the fish – gently corner it and catch it quickly. Place the fish gently in a holding receptacle that contains water from the tank.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater. 
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Danios, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Some species of Danio, such as zebra and leopard, can be kept in unheated aquariums.
They stay small (approximately 5cm), are active and easy to look after.
Always ask if the species of Danio you are interested in can live in an unheated aquarium.
Danios are active fish and although they will appreciate areas of cover (such as live or artificial plants) in which to hide, they will require an area in which to swim and a moderate current. Danios are a social species and need to be kept in a group of at least five.
Danios kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed. Danios are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-27°C
- pH: 6.5-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater. 
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Barbs, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Although most species are tropical, there are some barbs which can be kept in an unheated aquarium.
Two common species are rosy and golden barbs, both of which can grow to roughly 10cm.
Barbs are active fish and will enjoy space to swim, but they will need some areas of cover, ideally live plants.
Some species can be boisterous and nip fins so do not keep these with any shy species or species with long fins.
Barbs are social and will need to be kept in a group of at least five. Those kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
Barbs are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-27°C
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal - appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater. 
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Minnows, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
White cloud mountain minnows are a popular, easy to keep inhabitant of an unheated aquarium.
They are small fish and grow to about 5cm. They are available in their natural colouration as well as golden and long finned varieties.
White cloud mountain minnows are active fish and will enjoy space to swim, but they will need some areas of cover, ideally live plants and a moderate water flow with high levels of oxygen.
They are a social species and will also need to be kept in a group of at least five.
Those kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
White cloud mountain minnows are omnivorous and will take most food types.
In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-23°C
- pH: 6.5-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater.
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Platy’s, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Variatus platies are popular because of their small size (6-8cm), bright colours and calm temperament.
They also readily reproduce in home aquariums: another reason they are so popular.
Variatus platies are active fish and will enjoy space to swim, but they will need some areas of cover, ideally live plants.
To prevent unwanted male attention, they should be kept in either single sex groups or small groups of two females for every male.
Variatus platies are omnivorous and will take most food types.
In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule, ideally with a higher algae content.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-27°C
- pH: 7.0-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater.
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Corydora’s, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Many corydoras live in tropical aquariums but both bronze and peppered corydoras can live in an unheated aquarium.
They are small fish and only grow to around 6cm.
Both corydoras have sensitive barbels or ‘whiskers’ and so should be kept on a substrate of either fine gravel or sand.
They are sociable and should be kept in a group of at least five otherwise they are likely to become stressed
Sinking catfish pellets are a perfect food for both species, but they will also consume small frozen items such as daphnia, bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-27°C
- pH: 6.0-7.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater.
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Hillstream Loach’s, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Although Hillstream Loach can be kept in unheated aquariums, they have a very particular set of
needs and shouldn’t be used as ‘cleaner fish’. They stay small and will grow up to 6cm.
Hillstream Loaches require fast moving, highly oxygenated water and a mature tank which contains algae for them to graze on.
The tank should be decorated with large, round pebbles which make ideal grazing surfaces.
The substrate should be either sand or fine, smooth gravel.
They are likely to become stressed if kept alone so plan for a small group of at least three or four with other species that will thrive in these conditions.
Hillstream Loaches will need to be fed prepared foods, such as sinking catfish pellets, algae wafers, fresh vegetables and live or frozen daphnia, bloodworm or brine shrimp.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 18-24°C
- pH: 6.5-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater.
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Weather Loach’s, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Weather Loaches can make excellent aquarium inhabitants as they are easy to care for, peaceful and compatible with many other species.
They can get relatively large, up to 25cm.
They are a social species and should be kept in groups of at least three to allow them to interact with each other.
They also have sensitive skin, so won’t appreciate sharp or rough ornaments and substrates
Weather Loaches are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality sinking catfish pellet.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, bloodworm or tubifex.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-24°C
- pH: 6.5-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Generally, tropical species will require a minimum temperature of at least 22°C and, therefore, a heater is required.
There are many other species which will thrive in smaller aquariums without a heater.
Although these fish can live in subtropical conditions, a filter is still essential.
If you are interested in keeping Cold water shrimp, please see our more detailed guide below for more information.
With unheated aquariums it is especially important to consider the environment in which the tank is placed.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Both Amano and cherry shrimp are small colourful shrimp that do not require a heater in their aquarium.
They stay very small with adults reaching approximately 3cm and, as they are social, they will appreciate being kept in groups of at least five.
They thrive in an aquarium with lots of plants, gentle water flow and good water quality.
Be careful when using treatments with this species as they are highly sensitive to copper.
Both species will graze on algae in the aquarium but will also need a supplementary feeding of algae wafers or other sinking pellets.
Recommended parameters:
- Temperature: 17-24°C
- pH: 6.0-8.0
- Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
- Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
- General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
- Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as these species can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Shopping List
◊Glass or acrylic aquarium ◊Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness)
◊Filter* ◊Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)
◊Heater ◊Aquarium decorations and/or live plants
◊Lighting (required for live plants)* ◊Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator
◊Gravel or sand ◊Bucket for water changes
*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
