Keeping an aquarium is an immensely enjoyable and rewarding hobby for both adults and children alike.
This leaflet aims to help you in what to consider when setting up and maintaining a saltwater aquarium and to ensure that your inhabitants’ welfare needs are met.
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate your chosen fish once they are fully grown. Otherwise, you must be prepared to buy bigger set-ups as your fish grow.
Aquarium sizes range from nano tanks through to large custom-built aquariums of much bigger capacities.
As larger aquariums contain more water, they will be more stable and less susceptible to variations in temperature, pH etc than small aquariums.
Different types of marine aquaria can be established such as fish-only or reef tanks (which contain invertebrates such as corals).
On the whole, a fish-only tank or a soft coral reef is a good starting point for a newcomer to marine aquariums.
As you become more experienced, a fish- only tank can easily be turned into a reef tank provided species are compatible, although you will probably need to purchase additional equipment.
Clownfish are arguably one of the most famous marine fish and are often the first marine fish that many hobbyists keep.
They are from the damselfish family, Pomacentridae, and live on coral reefs all over the world.
Clownfish range in size and temperament, with some species being larger and more aggressive than others.
Biology
The common Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) and Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) are the
most common species in the trade and are unlikely to grow over 10cm. There are also many
other Clownfish species such as Maroon (Amphiprion biaculeatus), Tomato (Amphiprion frenatus)
and Clarkii (Amphiprion clarkii), which will grow larger than 10cm.
By using selective breeding techniques, many different patterns and colours have been developed within tank-bred Clownfish species. These can include strains such as snowflake, Picasso and gladiator.
Regardless of species or colour, these fish can live for many years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality.
Most Clownfish in the trade are tank-bred, which makes them very adaptable and an excellent beginner species.
As Clownfish mature, the more dominant individuals will grow larger and become female, whilst the males stay smaller.
There may be some squabbling during this process, so it is best to monitor their behaviour carefully. Clownfish should be kept in pairs with one male and one female, as some individuals may be bullied when kept in groups.
However, as they are capable of changing sex, it is recommended to buy two juveniles and let them naturally form a male and female pair. Although most Clownfish live in a symbiotic relationship with anemones in the wild, anemones are not required to successfully keep Clownfish in aquariums.
Clownfish may also try to host other species of corals when kept in captivity.
If you do decide to keep an anemone, please contact us to ensure you have the right set-up to keep one healthy as well as pick a species that your Clownfish will live with.
Water Requirements
Clownfish are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a pair of Clownfish.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep Clownfish with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Clownfish are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
Either live or artificial rockwork is good as it provides a site for them to host and they will likely spend most of their time here.
It is also important to include space for them to swim and other areas of rock work should other species wish to be kept.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Clownfish feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Clownfish alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Clownfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Clownfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Clownfish are omnivorous and require a wide range of foods to be in their best health.
A good quality flake or pellet will fulfil most of their nutritional needs, but this should be supplemented with frozen feeds such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or red plankton.
Clownfish may also graze on any algae which is offered to herbivorous species or grows in the aquarium.
Clownfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Chromis and Damselfish are among the most commonly kept fish in the hobby, because of their bright colours, small size and hardiness.
They are from the family Pomacentridae and live on coral reefs all over the world.
Chromis and Damselfish range in both size and temperament, with some species being larger and more aggressive than others.
Biology
Both Chromis and Damselfish usually remain relatively small, very rarely growing over 10 cm.
However, some of the larger species of Damselfish may grow nearer to 15cm.
There are many species of Damselfish available, but some of the most common are the yellow tail blue damsel (Chrysiptera parasema), domino (Dascyllus trimaculatus) and humbug (Dascyllus aruanus).
The most popular Chromis species is the Green Chromis (Chromis viridis).
Regardless of species or colour, these fish can live for many years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality.
In the wild, Chromis and Damselfish can be found in groups near areas of hard coral growth in which they quickly take shelter if they notice a threat.
Some Damselfish species ‘farm’ a patch of algae and will defend it aggressively in the wild and are therefore territorial in aquariums.
There are some species of Damselfish which are less aggressive, but most display some level of territoriality.
Chromis are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
Chromis kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed. Some Damselfish will prefer to live alone, whereas some will do better in large groups.
It can be difficult to identify the sex of most Chromis and Damselfish species unless they are in breeding condition, although some species may have obvious male/female differences in colour or finnage.
Water Requirements
Chromis & Damselfish are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (3-10°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a group of Chromis or Damselfish.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Chromis and Damselfish are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
Either live or artificial rockwork is good as it provides a site for them to host and they will likely spend most of their time here.
It is also important to include space for them to swim and other areas of rock work should other species wish to be kept.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Chromis and Damselfish feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Chromis and Damselfish alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Chromis or Damselfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Chromis & Damselfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Chromis and Damselfish are omnivorous and require a wide range of foods to be in their best health.
A good quality flake or pellet will fulfill most of their nutritional needs, but this should be supplemented with frozen feeds such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or red plankton.
In the wild, Damselfish and Chromis may also feed on algae, and so they may graze on any algae which is offered to herbivorous species or grows in the aquarium.
Chromis and Damselfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Basslets and Dottybacks are some of the most colourful fish that are kept in a marine aquarium.
Basslets are usually from the family Grammatidae and Dottybacks are from the Pseudochromidae family.
Both live on coral reefs all over the world.
Basslets and Dottybacks can be aggressive and territorial at times, but there are some calmer species which can make excellent aquarium inhabitants.
Biology
Basslets and Dottybacks are some of the most popular species for the marine aquarium and include the Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani) and Neon Dottyback (Pseudochromis aldabraensis). Both Basslets and Dottybacks stay relatively small and are unlikely to grow over 10cm.
Regardless of species, these fish can live for many years in a well- matured set up with good water quality.
In the wild they spend much of their time swimming in and around coral and rock, and are not naturally open-water swimmers.
Despite their small size, they can be predatory on any small invertebrates in the aquarium.
Many Dottybacks, and some other Basslets species, are tank-bred and are therefore very adaptable to aquarium conditions. There are also some hybrids available, which are not naturally found in the wild.
It can be very difficult to identify the sex of Basslets and Dottybacks unless they are in breeding condition.
Basslets and Dottybacks can be aggressive to the same or similar looking species and so it is best not to mix them with other Basslet or Dottybacks species unless they are kept in a large aquarium with many visual barriers.
Water Requirements
Basslets and Dottybacks are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least 1 Dottyback or Basslet.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Basslets and Dottybacks are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
Either live or artificial rockwork is good as it provides a site for them to host and they will likely spend most of their time here.
It is also important to include space for them to swim and other areas of rock work should other species wish to be kept.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Basslets and Dottybacks feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Basslets and Dottybacks alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Basslet or Dottyback you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Basslets and Dottybacks can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Basslets and Dottybacks will appreciate small meaty frozen feeds such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or krill.
Some individuals, particularly tank bred ones, will eat pellet and flake feeds. A varied diet is essential to maintain the bright colour of these species.
Basslets and Dottybacks should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Blennies make excellent aquarium inhabitants due to their small size, bright colours and interesting behaviours.
They are from the Blenniidae family and occur on coral reefs all over the world.
Most Blennies remain a manageable size and are generally tolerant of other species.
Biology
Some species, such as Dragonets , are sometimes referred to as Blennies when in fact, they are from a different family. Blennies attain a smaller size, with most species growing to around 10cm.
However, there are larger species, such as the Algae Blenny (Salarius fasciatus), which grows up to 15cm.
Blennies can live for many years in a well-matured set up with good water quality. In the wild, some species of Blenny spend most of their time perching on rockwork and swimming between outcrops looking for food or predators. Others are more free-swimming and will spend their time hovering in the water column.
Some species, such as members of the Meicanthus genus are bred commercially and tank-bred individuals are readily available.
It is usually best to keep Blenny species alone as they may become territorial with other Blennies in the same aquarium.
It is difficult to identify the sex of most Blennies unless they are in breeding condition.
Many Blenny species from the Meiacanthus genus have a venomous bite, with toxin delivered by their fangs.
However, this usually only occurs when they are threatened. Potential owners should be aware of this risk.
Water Requirements
Blennies are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Blennies are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
Either live or artificial rockwork is good as it provides a site for them to host and they will likely spend most of their time here.
It is also important to include space for them to swim and other areas of rock work should other species wish to be kept.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Blennies feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Blennies alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Blenny you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Blennies can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Some species of blenny are herbivorous and will require foods with a high algae content,
such as nori algae sheets, as well as grazing on algae growing within the aquarium.
Other species are omnivorous and will appreciate feeds high in algae, alongside smaller frozen meaty items such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or copepods.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Gobies are popular in marine aquariums because of their diversity in size, colour and behaviour.
They are from the family Gobiidae and occur on coral reefs all over the world.
Gobies vary in size and temperament and can be introduced into most marine aquariums.
Biology
Gobies differ from similar-looking species, such as Blennies, by having fused pelvic fins that form a ‘suction disc’ on which they perch. Gobies are a very diverse group and can behave in a variety of different ways.
Some species live in coral heads, others cling onto larger fish to eat parasites, and some sift the gravel for food items.
There are some species which have a symbiotic relationship with shrimp and live together in burrows.
However, they will all generally live near the sand bed or rock and few, if any, swim in the open.
Size can vary greatly. Species such as the Yellow Coral Goby (Gobiodon okinawae) only reach about 4cm, while the Yellow Sleeper Goby (Valenciennea strigata) grows up to 20cm.
Several species of Gobies, such as the Yellow Watchman (Cryptocentrus cinctus) and the Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) are bred commercially, and tank-bred individuals are often available.
Due to their diversity, different Goby species can be mixed, however it is usually best to avoid members of the same or similar looking species to avoid any disputes.
Sometimes male and female pairs are available, and these can be kept together. Some species can tolerate small groups if there is enough space.
Regardless of size, Gobies can live for many years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality.
Sexing Gobies depends on the species involved: some species will have no differences whereas others will have differences in finnage or colour.
Water Requirements
Gobies are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Due to their natural behaviour, live or artificial rockwork is essential for Gobies and should be arranged to provide crevices, overhangs and outcrops to allow them to find cover as required.
Additionally, many species will require a thick sand bed to allow them to filter through their gills to feed or to construct a burrow.
This should be at least 4cm, but perhaps deeper for some species, and comprised of a fine coral gravel (grains under 3mm) that can easily be moved or filtered.
Some gobies may move the sand around and this can undermine rock structures, so it is important to ensure that rock touches the bottom glass to prevent any falling down and causing damage.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus does not accumulate.
A lid or cover is essential as these fish can jump, especially if startled.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Blennies alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Goby you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Gobies can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Most Gobies are omnivorous and will require a varied diet. Generally, frozen meaty items are accepted well but should be sized according to the species being fed.
Larger species will appreciate krill, mysis shrimp or enriched brine shrimp.
Smaller species will require frozen copepods or finely chopped krill or mysis shrimp. In addition, many species will eat prepared diets, but granules or flakes should be of an appropriate size.
Some species will sift through the sand to obtain invertebrate food items, therefore the sand bed should be mature so that there is a large population of these prey items.
In addition, these may need to be supplemented with cultured or shop-bought live copepods, small frozen meaty foods or sinking pellets.
Gobies should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Wrasse are a hugely diverse group of fish from the family Labridae and occur on coral reefs all over the world.
Wrasse vary in size and temperament and so can be introduced into most marine aquariums.
Biology
Wrasse vary in size. Species such as the Six-line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) grow to approximately 8cm, whereas the Clown Coris (Coris aygula) will grow to around a metre.
Regardless of size, wrasse can live for many years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality.
Some species will change colour as they mature, so always ask your retailer if the species you buy will look the same as it grows.
Wrasse are usually very active swimmers and will be seen constantly swimming around the aquarium.
Some. wrasse will bury themselves under the sand bed to protect themselves when they sleep or feel threatened.
In wild environments, Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) are often seen eating parasites off larger fish, a behaviour which earns them their name.
In aquariums, wrasse are sometimes added to help consume pests, such as bristleworms or flatworms.
As there is huge variety within the wrasse family, it can be challenging to know which species can be mixed. Male and female pairs, or social species can be housed together successfully.
Sexing wrasse depends on the species involved: some species will have no differences between the sexes, whereas others,
such as Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus species), will have obvious differences in finnage or colour.
Water Requirements
Wrasse are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
Wrasse will vary on their décor requirements depending on their species. Some are very active and will appreciate lots of open swimming space.
Others appreciate a tank with more cover in the form of live or artificial rockwork, and they will swim close to the shelter as they move around looking for food.
Some Wrasse may move the sand around and this can undermine rock structures, so it is important to ensure that rock touches the bottom glass to prevent any falling down and causing damage. Many species will require a sand bed thick enough in which to bury themselves at night or if they feel threatened.
The thickness will vary on the size of the individual but 6cm should provide a fair amount of cover. Finer sand will help individuals bury themselves easier.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus does not accumulate.
A lid or cover is essential as these fish can jump, especially if startled.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Wrasse alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Wrasse you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Wrasse can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Most wrasse will require frozen meaty foods which should be sized according to the species being fed.
Larger species will appreciate krill, mysis shrimp or enriched brine shrimp. Smaller species will require frozen copepods or finely chopped krill or mysis.
In addition, many species will eat prepared diets, but it is important that granules or flakes are size-appropriate.
Some species such as peacock wrasse (Macropharyngodon bipartitus) will also graze on live food species that naturally live in the aquarium.
Therefore, these fish should only be added to a mature aquarium and the population of prey items, such as copepods, should be topped up regularly.
Alternatively, frozen copepods can be provided if your wrasse will accept them
Wrasse should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Tangs and rabbitfish are popular aquarium inhabitants due to their bright colours.
Tangs are from the Acanthuridae family, and rabbitfish are from the Siganidae family. Both are found on coral reefs all over the world.
Tangs and rabbitfish make excellent aquarium inhabitants, provided they are kept in an adequately sized aquarium and their needs are met.
Biology
Popular Tang species include the Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens), Regal (Paracanthurus hepatus) and Naso (Naso lituratus) Tang.
Popular Rabbitfish species include the Foxface (Siganus vulpinus) and Magnificent Foxface (Siganus magnificus).
Most Tangs and Rabbitfish vary in size and shape. Some tangs are “taller” than they are long, whereas others are more traditionally shaped and can grow up to 40cm.
Rabbitfish generally remain smaller and are unlikely to exceed 30cm.
Regardless of species, these fish can live for many years in a well-matured set up with good water quality.
In the wild they spend much of their time swimming around the reef grazing on algae.
Care should be taken when handling Tangs or Rabbitfish .
Tangs have sharp modified scales near the tail which resembles a scalpel and can inflict injuries on humans.
Some species may have venom glands at the base of these.
Rabbitfish have a venomous spine on their dorsal fin which can also cause harm to humans.
It can be very difficult to identify the sex of tangs and Rabbitfish unless they are in breeding condition.
In the wild, they often live in shoals and this can be replicated in aquariums provided they are large enough.
Groups should have at least 6 individuals of the same species to help distribute aggression.
If a group cannot be kept, Tangs and Rabbitfish should be kept singly to avoid bullying of smaller or less dominant individuals.
Water Requirements
Tangs and Rabbitfish are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
For marine set-ups this can be in the form of live rock with sufficient water flow, an internal or external filter, or a sump-based filter.
A protein skimmer can also be beneficial for maintaining water quality as it will help to remove dissolved organic waste before it can break down into more harmful substances.
Tangs and Rabbitfish are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
However, live or artificial rockwork is recommended to provide cover and an opportunity for this fish to behave naturally.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Tangs and Rabbitfish feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A lid or cover is essential as these fish can jump, especially if startled.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Wrasse alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Tang or Rabbitfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Tangs & Rabbitfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Both tangs and Rabbitfish are mainly herbivores. Their diet should reflect this and should contain foods high in algae such as nori sheets, algae-based flake and grazing tabs. It is important that enough algal based foods are provided or they may become ill.
They will also eat small meaty frozen feeds such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or krill.
Tangs and Rabbitfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Dwarf angelfish are popular aquarium inhabitants due to their bright colours and smaller size than their relatives.
Dwarf angelfish are from the family Pomacanthidae and live on coral reefs all over the world.
Most dwarf angelfish make excellent aquarium inhabitants, but some have specific requirements.
Biology
Popular dwarf angelfish include the Flame (Centropyge loriculus), Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosus) and Bicolour (Centropyge bicolor) angelfish.
As their name suggests, dwarf angelfish remain small.
Cherub Angelfish (Centropyge argi) grow to approximately 8cm, whereas the Bicolour Angelfish is unlikely to grow over 15cm.
Regardless of species, these fish can live for many years in a well-matured set up with good water quality. In the wild they spend much of their time swimming around the reef looking for food.
Tank-bred dwarf angelfish are becoming more available, and many species which were previously rare can now be kept more commonly.
Some dwarf angelfish from deeper waters can be sensitive and are not recommended for beginners.
It can be very difficult to identify the sex of dwarf angelfish unless they are in breeding condition.
Most dwarf angelfish are aggressive to the same or similar looking species and should be mixed carefully. Occasionally male and female pairs are offered, and they can be kept together.
Water Requirements
Dwarf Angelfish are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
These parameters are a general guide for this group of fish, so it is important to check with our team of staff for any species-specific requirements before purchasing.
Salinity: Between 1.020-1.025
Temperature: Between 24-26°C
pH: 7.9-8.3
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 50 mg per litre
Carbonate hardness: Hard (8-12°dkH)
Calcium: Between 380-450 ppm
Magnesium: Between 1250-1350 ppm
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Aquariums will need to be even larger if you wish to keep them with other species.
A larger aquarium will also provide more stability to environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
For marine set-ups this can be in the form of live rock with sufficient water flow, an internal or external filter, or a sump-based filter.
A protein skimmer can also be beneficial for maintaining water quality as it will help to remove dissolved organic waste before it can break down into more harmful substances.
Dwarf Angelfish are relatively undemanding in terms of aquarium décor.
However, live or artificial rockwork is recommended to provide cover and an opportunity for this fish to behave naturally.
A thin layer of coral sand (approximately 2cm) is useful to make Dwarf Angelfish feel secure and to maintain carbonate hardness levels.
There should be a moderate water flow to provide good surface movement and to ensure detritus doesn’t accumulate.
A lid or cover is essential as these fish can jump, especially if startled.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
This will not need to be particularly bright for Dwarf Angelfish alone but may need to be brighter if keeping with coral species
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Marine Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the Dwarf Angelfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enoug
h nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
Filters should be well maintained, with regular checking and cleaning to prevent blockages.
If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Protein skimmers should be regularly cleaned to maintain their performance.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Dwarf Angels can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
It is also important to regularly monitor salinity and use reverse osmosis water to replace any water lost through evaporation.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Dwarf Angelfish will appreciate a varied diet.
This should include meaty frozen feeds such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp or krill, alongside vegetable matter such as nori sheets.
Many individuals will eat pellet and flake feeds, particularly tank-bred individuals. Some dwarf angelfish will predate on invertebrates they find in the aquarium.
Dwarf Angelfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Marine fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
