Caring for fish can be a very rewarding hobby and there are hundreds of different types of fish for you to choose from.
A fish tank creates a calming and relaxing atmosphere in the home. If you’re thinking about keeping fish but don’t know where to start, The Pet Charity suggests starting with a tank of temperate fish, such as white cloud minnows or Variatus platy. Temperate fish are smaller than goldfish, so you won’t have to upgrade your tank unless you decide to add more fish. They’re also quite hardy and can cope with varying temperatures, which can be damaging to tropical or coldwater fish.
Read our caring for fish guides below for more information about keeping your fish healthy and happy.
Tetras are some of the most recognisable aquarium fish.
They are from the family Characidae and originally occur in South America and Africa, although the majority of those in the aquarium trade are now captive bred. 
Pencilfish are less well-known and are from the family Lebiasinidae.
They also occur mainly in South America, with much fewer species being captive bred for the aquarium trade.
Both tetras and Pencilfish are generally small, colourful and peaceful fish, however, there are some exceptions.
Most tetras and Pencilfish are undemanding aquarium inhabitants and are easy to keep.
Biology
Tetras grow to a range of sizes, but most stay between 2-5cm, with some larger species reaching nearer 10cm.
There are fewer species of Pencilfish, and even fewer in the trade, but they generally stay smaller and don’t often grow above 5cm.
Although small, these fish can live several years in a well matured set-up with good water quality.
Tetras and Pencilfish are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
Tetras or Pencilfish kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
It is difficult to sex most species of fish unless they are breeding, but in some species such as the Congo tetra the males are more colourful and have longer fins than the females. Similarly, spawning male Pencilfish will become a lot brighter in colour.
Water Requirements
Tank-reared individuals are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below.
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.5-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small shoal of tetras or Pencilfish.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots or model caves, which supplies the fish with shelter.
It is also important to provide tetras and Pencilfish with space to swim, and a gentle current for the smaller species.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size the number of tetras or Pencilfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as bettas can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any
changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real
health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Both tetras and Pencilfish are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex.
Tetras and Pencilfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Omnivorous fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Dwarf Cichlids are popular due to their small size and bright colours.
They are a diverse group of fish originating from Africa and South America but the majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred.
Although they are usually undemanding aquarium inhabitants, care has to be taken when mixing these fish with other species as they can be territorial, especially if breeding.
Biology
There are many different species of Dwarf Cichlid in the trade but the most popular are rams, kribensis and those from the genus Apistogramma.
Some African lake species, e.g. shell dweller Cichlids, are sometimes referred to as dwarf Cichlids.
These have specific care requirements and are not suitable for community aquaria.
As their name suggests, these fish do not grow particularly big with the larger species not exceeding 10cm.
Some of these fish are more demanding than others in terms of water quality and tank set up, but with the right care they can live several years in a well matured set up.
Some dwarf Cichlids can be territorial, especially when breeding.
As such, it is worth doing some research into compatibility with other species before making your choice.
Dwarf Cichlids are social and will do well in male, female pairs, or one male with multiple females.
If you want to keep more than one pair, then ensure that the aquarium is large enough for each pair to establish their own territory.
Sexing dwarf Cichlids is relatively easy as there are usually obvious sex differences in colour, size or their fins between male and females.
Water Requirements
Dwarf Cichlids are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.0-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule, you should within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Dwarf Cichlids you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Dwarf Cichlids can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Dwarf Cichlids are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex.
Dwarf Cichlids should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Cichlid specific foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Rasboras are calm, colourful and common aquarium fish.
They are from the family Cyprinidae and originate from areas of south and south-east Asia but the majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred.
They are generally small, peaceful fish and will not appreciate boisterous tank mates.
However, Rasboras are usually undemanding aquarium inhabitants and are easy to keep.
Biology
There are 70 different species of Rasbora, but only a few are regularly seen in the aquarium
trade.
Rasboras are small fish and only a few species grow over 5cm long.
Although small, these fish can live several years in a well matured set up with good water
quality.
Rasboras are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
Rasboras are social fish and those which are kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
It is difficult to sex Rasboras unless they are in breeding condition. If so, the female will have a rounder body than the male.
Water Requirements
Rasboras are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.5-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small shoal of Rasboras.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Rasboras you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Rasboras can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Rasbora are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex.
Rasbora should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Omnivorous fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Rainbowfish are some of the most colourful fish in the aquarium hobby.
They are from the family Melanotaeniidae and originate from south-east Asia, Australia and Madagascar.
The majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred.
Although there are some timid species, most Rainbowfish can be mixed in community aquariums to some degree.
Rainbowfish are usually easy-going aquarium inhabitants and are easy to keep.
Biology
There are various species of Rainbowfish available in the trade, most of which are from the genus Melanotaenia, although some may be from Glossolepis or Iriatherina.
Rainbowfish vary in size from the Threadfin Rainbowfish (4cm) to larger species such as the red Rainbowfish (13cm). Some species are also grow deeper bodied with age and adults may have very different body shapes when compared to juveniles.
Regardless of their size, these fish can live several years in a well matured set up with good water quality.
Rainbowfish are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
Rainbowfish are social and those which are kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
It is preferrable to buy more female Rainbowfish than males, to ensure that males do not fight.
Sexing Rainbowfish is usually very simple. The male usually has a much brighter colour than the female and may have elongated fins
Water Requirements
Rasboras are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.5-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small shoal of Rainbowfish.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium.
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Rainbowfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Rainbowfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Rainbowfish are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex.
Rainbowfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Omnivorous fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Loaches are a diverse group of fish, but they are all from the family Cobitidae and originate from Asia.
However, the majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred.
Many loach species are active, peaceful fish that can mix well with most fish and are usually easy-going aquarium inhabitants.
Biology
There are several different species of Loach, but some of the most common in the trade are Clown Loach (Chromobotia macracanthus), Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii), and Zebra Loach (Botia striata).
Most loaches won’t exceed 10cm, however Clown Loach can grow to over 30cm and will need a large aquarium from the outset if they are to thrive.
Loaches can be slow growing, but they can live several years in a well matured set up with good water quality.
Loaches have a spine just underneath each eye and therefore should be handled carefully.
They also have either reduced or absent scales and so may be intolerant of some medications.
Loaches are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
They are social fish and those which are kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
It is difficult to sex Loaches unless they are in breeding condition when females may have a more round body than the male.
Water Requirements
Loaches are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 22-27°C
pH: 6.5-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small shoal of Loaches.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Loaches you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Loaches can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Loaches are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality sinking pellet or granules.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex.
Some species may also eat snails from within the aquarium and are often used for pest control.
Loaches should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Omnivorous fish foods.
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Barbs are from the family Cyprinidae and come in many shapes and colours.
They make an active addition to an aquarium, however, they should be mixed with caution as some species can be aggressive and are notorious fin nippers.
They originate mainly from Asia, but due to their popularity most are captive bred for the aquarium trade.
Biology
Barbs come in a wide range of sizes, from the small and very popular tiger barb which grow to about 8cm to much larger species such as the tin foil barb which can get to 25cm.
The smaller species can live for several years in a well matured set up with good water quality, however larger species may live for much longer.
Barbs are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, but more is better.
Barbs kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed.
Keeping barbs in larger groups also helps to reduce their fin nipping behaviour.
It can be difficult to sex barbs as there may not be obvious differences. During spawning, females are generally larger bodied.
Some species may exhibit small differences, for example male tiger barbs might develop a red nose and fed finnage.
Water Requirements
Barbs are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 20-27°C
pH: 6.0-7.5
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small group of Barbs.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Barbs you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Barbs can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Most barbs are omnivorous and will take most food types. In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake or granule.
They will also benefit from being fed live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex for the smaller species and larger items like artemia, bloodworm or chopped items like cockle or mussel for larger barbs.
Some species such as the tinfoil barb are predominately vegetarian and will need vegetable matter in their diet.
Barbs should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water
Click here to shop our range of Fish Foods
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Catfish are a large group of fish which contains many species.
These originate from all over the world but the majority of those in the aquarium trade are captive bred.
Due to their diversity, catfish can range from small and peaceful to large and predatory.
Biology
There is a huge number of catfish species, however popular groups in the aquarium trade include corydoras, plecos and syndodontis.
Catfish range in size from small species such as Otocinclus (4cm), to red tailed catfish which can grow up to a metre. For more detail on the larger species, please see our Tankbusters care sheet.
Regardless of size, these fish can live for several years in a well-matured set up with good water quality.
Some species, such as Corydoras, are shoaling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five.
Those which are kept singly or in groups that are too small will often become stressed. Other species will need lots of space and will prefer to live alone.
Sexing catfish can be difficult, however some species, such as bristlenose catfish, can have obvious differences between male and female.
Care should be taken when handling catfish as most have spines on their front (pectoral) fins and just behind their gills.
Water Requirements
Barbs are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 20-27°C
pH: 6.0-7.5
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Soft-medium (4-12°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Soft-medium (3-10°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a shoal of the smaller species such as Corydoras or for the smaller pleco species.
However, much larger aquariums will be needed for bigger species.
Please contact us or speak to us in store for advise and information about aquariums suitable for the species you are interested in keeping.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Catfish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Catfish can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Catfish vary hugely in their dietary requirements. Some are omnivorous (such as Corydoras), some are herbivorous (such as plecos), and the more predatory species are carnivorous.
Although they have a reputation as scavengers, catfish should be fed the appropriate sinking foods to ensure their nutritional needs are met.
Catfish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes.
Some grazing species may take longer to feed, so allow 30 minutes if required.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water
Click here to shop our range of Fish Foods for Catfish
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
Platies and Swordtails are popular, colourful, aquarium fish. 
They are both from the family Poeciliidae and originally occur in North and Central America, although the majority of those in the aquarium trade are now captive bred. They are generally small, colourful and peaceful fish.
Most Platies and Swordtails are undemanding aquarium inhabitants and are easy to keep.
Guppies and mollies are some of the most iconic aquarium fish.
They are both from the family Poeciliidae and originally occur in Central and South America, although the majority of those in the aquarium trade are now captive bred.
They are generally small, very colourful and peaceful fish. Most guppies and mollies are undemanding aquarium inhabitants and are easy to keep.
Biology
Platies generally stay smaller (6-8cm) than Swordtails (8-12cm). Platies also lack the long tailfin extension that give Swordtails their name.
However, this sword won’t be found on female Swordtails.
Platies and swordtails do require some companionship and it is suggested that at least three are kept together (two females to each male) to reduce stress on females or other tank inhabitants.
However, more can be kept together providing they are added in this ratio.
Despite the array of colours available, guppies are only ever one of two species.
Traditional guppies (Poecilia reticulata) are larger at about 5cm, whilst Endler guppies (Poecilia wingei) are the smaller species which grow to around 2.5cm.
Guppies and mollies do require some companionship and it is suggested that at least three are kept together (two females to each male) to reduce stress on females or other tank inhabitants.
More can be kept together providing they are added in this ratio.
Water Requirements
Livebearers are usually undemanding of water chemistry and their suggested parameters are shown below:
Temperature: between 20-26°C
pH: 7.0-8.0
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Medium-hard (8-18°dH)
Carbonate hardness: Medium-hard (5-15°dkH)
Aquarium Requirements
As a general rule you should, within reason, buy an aquarium as large as possible.
Ideally, it should be able to accommodate at least a small group of Platies, Swordtails, Guppies or Mollies.
However, much larger aquariums will be needed for bigger species.
Please contact us or speak to us in store for advise and information about aquariums suitable for the species you are interested in keeping.
The larger the aquarium, the more stable the environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality will be.
Whatever the size, a filter is always essential.
The tank should also have aquarium gravel or sand and ideally live plants present to provide cover, especially for the more shy species.
Even well settled pairs will often chase each other so providing plenty of cover is essential.
If live plants are not used, then the addition of plastic plants and suitable ornaments is recommended, such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter, which provide the fish with shelter.
These fish usually form a territory surrounding an optimal spawning site, such as a piece of wood, stone or cave.
For these fish to be comfortable, it is good to provide a choice of these sites in your aquarium
A heater is required to maintain a suitable temperature all year round.
To minimise fluctuations in water temperature, the aquarium should not be situated near any draughts or heat sources.
It should also be out of direct sunlight and away from loud noises, vibrations and sudden movements.
Overhead tank lighting is recommended to maintain a correct day-night cycle.
Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.
Click here to shop our Fresh Water Test Kits & Equipment.
Introducing your fish
Before adding any fish, please contact us or speak to us in store to make sure that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of fish you would like to keep.
Check that the water quality in your aquarium is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero.
Only increase the number of fish you have in your aquarium slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your aquarium filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases.
Overstocking or stocking your aquarium too quickly can result in ‘new tank syndrome’.
This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die.
Maintenance
At least once every week, a partial water change of 25% is strongly recommended (a siphon device is useful to remove solid waste from the gravel).
The water should be tested regularly (at least once per week) to ensure that ammonia and nitrites don’t build up.
Ensure that the replacement water is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present before adding to the aquarium.
Filters should be checked for blockages. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media.
Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the tank water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.
Good husbandry is essential as Livebearers can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia and nitrite which may then cause them to develop various diseases.
Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish.
What to watch out for
All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:
- swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
- colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
- temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
- breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal
- appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales
- condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
- feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food
Feeding
Platies, Swordtails, Guppies & Mollies are omnivorous and will take most food types.
In the home aquarium, they should be fed with a good quality flake, or granule with a high algae content.
They will also benefit from being fed small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex.
Livebearers should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day.
Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water.
Click here to shop our range of Omnivorous Fish Food
If in doubt, contact us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.
Checklist
Before purchase make sure:
1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.
Before purchase make sure:
- The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown.
- Water parameters are as advised.
- Aquarium is cycled and ready to receive fish.
This information is supported by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association.
For more information and advice visit www.ornamentalfish.org
